Handmade Heritage: A search for Hong Kong’s old artisans
I take a look at 10 quintessentially Hong Kong crafts that date back decades.
Cheongsams
These sophisticated, body-hugging dresses were all the rage during the 1920s. Nowadays, cheongsams still make for an elegant fashion statement and are typically worn at Chinese celebrations.
Check Out: Mei Wah Tailor After spending decades in the business, Kan Hon-wing of Mei Wah Tailor is still as enthusiastic about making clothes as he was on his first day. Taking a look at his jam-packed little book of records—which reveals customers who flock from France, Australia, China and the US just to own a piece of Kan’s handiwork—it’s not hard to see why he’s been able to stay in business through the years. His cheongsams are all custommade with attention to every detail—a testament to Kan’s pride in producing top quality cheongsams. A dress here typically costs around $4,800, and Kan’s happy to mail your garment to you once it’s done.
6 Queen’s Rd. West, Sheung Wan, 2543-6889, meewahqipao.wordpress.com
Chinese Calligraphy Before pens and pencils, brushes and black ink were used for writing in many Asian countries, including China, Japan and Korea. Today, Chinese calligraphy is still taught in school as an art form, but high-quality animal-hair brushes and ink stones have become increasingly harder to find.
Check Out: Yau Sang Cheong Yau Sang Cheong was founded during the 1800s, when the Qing dynasty still held the reins. The three-story shop in Yau Ma Tei is most often frequented by loyal customers, as it sells everything one might need for Chinese calligraphy. Head here for inks of all colors, handmade brushes, prints, papers and even instruction manuals that are perfect for beginners.
3-5/F, Cheung Wah Commercial Building, 3-5 Saigon St., Yau Ma Tei,
2332-8881
Bamboo Steamers
Bamboo steamers may not be as hi-tech as your modern kitchen gadgets, but they’re well worth the investment. If you’re looking to make Chinese dim sum—mmm… har gow—bamboo steamers are the best way to keep your food from getting all soggy.
Check Out: Tak Chong Sum Kee Tak Chong Sum Kee Bamboo Steamer Company got its start in Guangzhou around 1950, but as many people flocked to Hong Kong, so did the family business. The store has moved around the city several times over the years, but finally settled in its Sai Ying Pun location 20 years ago. Tak Chong Sum Kee’s first clients were mainly dim sum restaurants, but nowadays the owners say housewives and casual cooks are the most common customers.
12 Western St., Sai Ying Pun, 2548-8201
Soy Sauce One of the most important condiments in Cantonese cooking, soy sauce is a staple in every Hong Kong kitchen. Made with fermented, pressed soy paste, the dark liquid has a unique flavor that nicely complements meats and vegetables.
Check Out: Kowloon Soy Established in 1917, Kowloon Soy, which now operates in Yuen Long, follows age-old brewing methods. Basically, that means the sun is doing all the hard work: soy beans are left outside to ferment naturally before being pressed and bottled in the factory. While the company’s main focus is still on soy sauce, the shop in Central also sells Cantonese foods and condiments such as bean curd, sweetened black vinegar and sesame oil.
9 Graham St., Central, 2544-3697, www.kowloonsoy.com
Chinese Cosmetics
The city’s first beauty brands sprung from locals who saw wealthy colonizers using fancy cosmetics and bath products. Resourceful artisans adapted the products to make more affordable knock-off versions. Not only was the price adjusted, but products were also tweaked to suit Hongkongers’ tastes, resulting in some pretty unique creations.
Check out: Kwong Sang Hong (Two Girls) A true Hong Kong oldie, Two Girls cosmetic brand was established in 1898 and still sells some of its most classic products. The company’s best-selling Florida Water is a lightly fragranced water that doubles as mosquito repellent, while the Living Rose Face Cream is a multi-tasking concoction that soothes and heals the skin. Products are available at multiple vendors across town but for the complete experience, visit the store in Causeway Bay.
Shop 207-8, Causeway Place, 2-10 Great George St., Causeway Bay,
2504-1811, www.twogirls.hk
Traditional Candy
Chinese snacks typically offer a variety of sweets and pastries made with local ingredients such as nuts, lotus seeds and red dates. “Jellies,” which are made with herbs and dried fruits, are pretty popular too.
Check Out: Chan Yee Jai All those in the know flock to Chan Yee Jai for its delicious treats. The company has been pumping out tasty concoctions since 1927, with almond cookies and egg noodles with shrimp roe among some of its most famous products. Delivery is available for orders of greater than $300 on Hong Kong Island ($500 for Kowloon). Be warned, though: the “online” ordering method is a little old-school—you need to print a form and fax it to 2543-7277. Or… you could just visit in person.
G/F, 176B Queen’s Rd. Central, 2543-8414, www.chanyeejai.com.hk
Shoe Artistry
Embroidery has long been an important art form in China: the Imperial Palace used to have entire departments consisting of young women who would embroider flowers and dragons onto the royal family’s clothes, pillows and bags.dried fruits, are pretty popular too.
Check Out: Sindart Miru Wong recently became the third generation to inherit the Sindart legacy after her father and grandfather made a name for themselves with beautifully embroidered shoes. Wong studied at Hong Kong Polytechnic University and has helped modernize the business to keep it alive. All of Sindart’s shoes are handmade and very delicate. The family business also sells children’s shoes in case you’re keen to spoil the little ones.
Shop 16-17, 1/F, Bowring Centre, 150-164 Woo Sung St., Jordan,
6623-3015, www.facebook.com/Sindart1958
Brass Fixtures Brass fixings and furnishings have been popular in China since ancient times. The metal is commonly used as accents on large wooden pieces, such as door handles, trunk locks, chairs and beds. after World War II. The products here include beautifully sculpted Chinese brass furnishings such as dragon-embossed ice buckets, table lamps and lion sculptures. Locals and tourists alike flock to the store, including some high-profile customers—think Chris Patten and Prince Charles (via his assistants, if that counts) too.
Check Out: Sum Ngai Brass
Add a touch of ancient charm to your flat with a trip to Sum Ngai Brass. Originally from Shanghai, Sum Ngai founder Tong Shu-lun moved his family and business to Hong Kong after World War II. The products here include beautifully sculpted Chinese brass furnishings such as dragon-embossed ice buckets, table lamps and lion sculptures. Locals and tourists alike flock to the store, including some high-profile customers—think Chris Patten and Prince Charles (via his assistants, if that counts).
195B Kam Sheung Rd., Kam Tin, 2477-7202, www.sumngaibrass.com
Canvas Bags These nylon canvas totes, affectionately known to Hongkongers as “red-white-blue” bags, first appeared in Hong Kong during the 70s and have gone on to become a symbol of the city.
Check Out: Wah Ngai Canvas Shop Red, white and blue canvas bags have been a Hong Kong staple for decades. Light, durable and inexpensive, it seems as if every family has at least 10 of these bags. You can attribute the ubiquitousness, at least in part, to Lee Wah who owns Wah Ngai Canvas Shop. Known as the “Father of Red White and Blue,” Lee was the first to start manufacturing the bags in Hong Kong. Today, Lee’s store still sells the iconic totes, which are typically used as a cheap and easy alternative to plastic bags.
G/F, 212 Yee Kuk St., Sham Shui Po, 2749-7311
Custom Printing During the 1950s, small printing shops began gathering along Lee Tung Street, and the area quickly became famous for affordable and custom-made wedding invitations, thus earning the name “Wedding Card Street.” Sadly, the Urban Renewal Authority demolished the street in 2005, which displaced most of the wedding card shops.
Check Out: Good Day Though Wan Chai’s lively Wedding Card Street may have disappeared, there are still one or two old gems in action. In business for more than 20 years, Good Day specializes in producing wedding invitations and lai see envelopes, as well as custom-printing services. Visit the shop and the staff members will walk you through every step of the design to help you create unique invitations.
G/F, 28 Swatow St., Wan Chai, 2575-2412, www.goodday111.com
This article first appeared in the 16 November, 2013 issue of The List Magazine.
Photos by Chris Luk.